Frequently Asked Questions

Many Bay Area homes were built without central air conditioning because our climate used to be milder and AC wasn't seen as essential. That's changing. Inland and East Bay cities like Walnut Creek, Concord, Antioch, San Ramon and Pleasanton regularly see 90-100°F+ summer days now, and even traditionally cooler areas like Oakland and Berkeley get uncomfortable during heat waves and smoke events.

Central air conditioning or a heat pump system can make a huge difference in comfort, sleep quality, and indoor air quality, especially when you need to keep windows closed due to wildfire smoke. If you're currently relying on window AC units or portable units, you're probably paying more in energy for less comfort than a properly designed central AC or heat pump would provide.

Read more: "Do Bay Area Homes Really Need AC?"

There's no single "best" system for every Bay Area home, but there is usually a best system for your home and lifestyle. In general:

Furnace + AC-Good for homeowners who already have gas service, existing ductwork in decent shape, and want a traditional setup with a gas furnace for heating and central AC for cooling.

Central heat pump-Ideal if you want all-electric heating and cooling in one system. Heat pumps shine in our mild winter climate and can drastically reduce gas usage while still keeping your home comfortable.

Ductless mini splits-Perfect for homes without ducts, additions, ADUs, finished garages, or problem rooms where central HVAC never worked well. Each zone gets its own temperature control.

At Bay Area Climate Control, we design systems around your home's layout, your utility rates, your budget, and your long-term plans (for example, whether you plan to electrify over time). We can walk you through pros and cons of furnace + AC, heat pump, and ductless mini splits so you can choose the right fit.

Read more: "Gas Furnace, Heat Pump or Dual Fuel in the Bay Area?"

In the Bay Area, we see typical lifespans of:

Gas furnaces: about 15-25 years, depending on brand, installation quality, and maintenance.

Central air conditioners & heat pumps: usually 12-18 years, sometimes longer with great maintenance and gentle use.

Ductless mini split systems: often 12-20 years, depending on usage and upkeep.

Factors that shorten HVAC life include lack of maintenance, dirty filters, poor duct design, coastal salt air, and oversized or undersized equipment that constantly short cycles or runs too hard. A properly sized Carrier system, installed correctly and maintained annually, almost always outlasts a neglected one.

Read more: "HVAC Lifespan by Brand & System Type"

A good rule of thumb is to look at age + repair cost + reliability:

If your system is 15+ years old and you're facing a major repair (compressor, heat exchanger, control board, etc.), it usually makes more sense to invest in a new system.

If repairs in the last 2-3 years are starting to add up and your energy bills are creeping higher, that's a sign of declining efficiency.

If your system struggles during heat waves or cold nights, is too loud, or never quite keeps you comfortable, it might simply be the wrong size or type for your home.

We always start with a repair-first mindset, but we'll be honest if your money is better spent on a new, efficient system instead of chasing repeated repairs.

Read more: "Repair vs Replace: How to Decide for Your HVAC System"

Correct AC sizing is critical-too small and the system runs endlessly; too big and it short cycles, wastes energy, and wears out early. At Bay Area Climate Control, we use a load calculation (not a guess) that looks at:

• Square footage and layout
• Window size, orientation, and shading
• Insulation levels and air leakage
• Duct design and location

We then match that load to an appropriately sized Carrier air conditioner or Carrier heat pump, not just a generic "3-ton unit." This helps ensure even comfort, quiet operation, and long-term efficiency, especially during East Bay heat waves.

Read more: "AC Sizing for Bay Area Homes-Why Tonnage Isn't Enough"

AC installation costs in the East Bay & greater Bay Area vary widely because every home is different. Pricing depends on:

• System type (central AC vs heat pump vs ductless)
• Efficiency level and features (single-stage vs variable-speed)
• Whether existing ducts can be reused or need repair/replacement
• Electrical upgrades or panel work
• Access to the equipment (attic, crawlspace, rooftop, etc.)

We don't do "one-size-fits-all" quotes over the phone. Instead, we come out, evaluate your home, talk through your goals, and then provide a clear, written estimate so you know exactly what's included.

Read more: "AC Installation Costs in the East Bay-What to Expect"

Most straight AC replacements, where we're swapping in a new Carrier condenser and matching indoor coil with existing ducts in good shape, take about one day.

Installations can take longer when:

• Ductwork needs repair, redesign, or replacement
• You're switching from no AC to new central AC or heat pump
• Your electrical panel needs upgrades or new circuits
• The system is in a hard-to-access attic or crawlspace

We always explain the installation process and expected timeline up front so you know what to expect and how to plan your day.

Read more: "AC Installation Timeline: What Happens on Installation Day"

For air conditioning and heat pumps, Bay Area Climate Control focuses on Carrier equipment. We like Carrier because:

• Carrier offers a wide range of high-efficiency central AC, heat pump, and ductless systems suitable for Bay Area microclimates.
• Their variable-speed and two-stage systems provide excellent comfort, quiet operation, and strong humidity control on hot days.
• Carrier has good parts availability and strong manufacturer warranties, which is important for long-term support.
• Their product lines allow us to design systems tailored to your home-from compact solutions for smaller properties to high-performance options for larger homes.

Ultimately, the quality of the installation and system design matters even more than the name on the box. We pair Carrier equipment with careful design, proper sizing, and clean workmanship to deliver the comfort and reliability homeowners expect.

Read more: "Best AC Options from Carrier for Bay Area Homes"

This is one of the biggest decisions Bay Area homeowners face when their furnace reaches end-of-life. The answer depends on your climate zone, energy costs, and long-term plans.

Stick with a furnace if: You're in an inland area with occasional cold nights, already have gas service, and prioritize lower upfront costs.

Switch to a heat pump if: You want to eliminate gas usage, live in a mild coastal or moderate climate, and value long-term energy savings and environmental benefits.

Heat pumps can be 2-3x more efficient than gas furnaces in our mild Bay Area winters, plus they provide AC in summer. With federal tax credits up to $2,000 and local rebates, the cost gap has narrowed significantly.

Learn more about heat pump installation

Furnace installation costs in the Bay Area typically range from $4,500 to $9,000 depending on:

• Furnace efficiency (80% AFUE standard vs 95%+ high-efficiency)
• Size and capacity needed for your home
• Ductwork condition and any necessary repairs
• Gas line modifications or upgrades
• Accessibility and installation complexity

High-efficiency (95%+ AFUE) furnaces cost more upfront but save significantly on gas bills over their 15-20 year lifespan, especially important with PG&E's rising gas rates.

View furnace installation details

Furnace sizing isn't about square footage alone-it requires a proper Manual J load calculation that accounts for:

• Home insulation levels and air sealing
• Window quantity, size, and quality
• Ceiling heights and home layout
• Bay Area microclimate (coastal vs inland)
• Ductwork design and condition

An oversized furnace short-cycles, wastes energy, creates temperature swings, and wears out faster. An undersized furnace runs constantly and can't keep up on the coldest nights. We perform detailed load calculations to size your furnace correctly the first time.

Read more: "How Long Do Furnaces Last in the Bay Area?"

Absolutely. Modern heat pumps excel in Bay Area winters because our climate is their sweet spot. Here's why:

Bay Area winter lows typically range from 38-50°F-exactly where heat pumps operate at peak efficiency (250-350% efficiency). Even during rare cold snaps to 30-35°F, today's variable-speed heat pumps like the Carrier Infinity maintain full heating capacity.

Unlike Chicago or Minneapolis where heat pumps struggle in sub-zero weather, Bay Area heat pumps rarely encounter temperatures that challenge their performance. We've installed hundreds across Oakland, Berkeley, Walnut Creek, and San Jose with zero complaints about winter heating.

Read more: "How Heat Pumps Handle Oakland/Berkeley Winters"

Heat pump installation typically costs $8,000-$15,000 vs $10,000-$13,000 for a separate furnace + AC system. While heat pumps can be slightly more upfront, they often cost less than installing both heating and cooling separately.

Federal tax credits and rebates make heat pumps even more attractive:

• Federal tax credit: Up to $2,000 (30% of cost)
• TECH Clean California rebates: Up to $4,000 for qualified homeowners
• Local utility rebates: $500-$1,500 depending on efficiency

After incentives, many Bay Area homeowners pay less for a heat pump than they would for a furnace + AC combo, while enjoying lower operating costs year-round.

Read more: "Heat Pump vs Furnace Cost Comparison"

Yes! Heat pumps ARE air conditioners-they use identical cooling technology. In fact, premium heat pumps often cool better than basic AC units because they feature variable-speed compressors and advanced controls.

During the brutal 2022-2024 heat waves when Livermore hit 115°F, Walnut Creek reached 110°F, and even Oakland saw 95°F+ days, our Carrier heat pump installations performed flawlessly. Variable-speed models actually handle extreme heat better than single-stage AC units because they can ramp capacity as needed.

Read more: "Heat Pump Performance During Bay Area Heat Waves"

Ductless mini splits are ideal for several common Bay Area scenarios:

• Homes without existing ductwork-Installing ducts can cost $5,000-$15,000; mini splits avoid that expense
• Room additions and ADUs-Perfect for spaces where extending ductwork isn't practical
• Problem rooms-Upstairs bedrooms, converted garages, sunrooms that central HVAC never serves well
• Zone control needs-Different family members want different temperatures in different rooms
• Older homes-Historic Bay Area homes where adding ducts would damage architecture

Mini splits offer precise room-by-room control and exceptional efficiency (often 20+ SEER), making them perfect for targeted comfort needs.

Learn more about mini split installation

Mini split installation costs in the Bay Area vary by system size:

• Single-zone (one indoor unit): $3,500-$6,000 installed
• Multi-zone (2-4 rooms): $6,000-$12,000 installed
• Whole-home (4-6+ zones): $12,000-$20,000 installed

Key factors affecting cost include number of zones, difficulty of refrigerant line runs (through walls/attic), electrical work needed, and efficiency level (SEER rating).

While multi-zone systems seem expensive, compare to the cost of adding ductwork ($8,000-$15,000) plus a central system-mini splits often cost less overall while delivering superior zone control.

Noise: Modern mini splits are remarkably quiet. Indoor units typically operate at 19-25 decibels (quieter than a library), and outdoor units are comparable to or quieter than traditional AC condensers. Premium Carrier mini splits feature "whisper mode" for near-silent nighttime operation.

Aesthetics: Today's mini splits are much sleeker than older "box on the wall" designs. Wall-mounted units are low-profile (usually 8-12" wide × 30-36" long), available in white or designer colors, and can be positioned strategically. Many Bay Area homeowners find them less obtrusive than floor registers and more attractive than window AC units.

We can also install concealed ducted mini split air handlers in closets or attics if you prefer hidden units with discrete grilles.

An AC that runs without cooling usually indicates one of these common issues:

• Refrigerant leak-Low refrigerant prevents heat transfer; you'll notice ice on refrigerant lines
• Dirty evaporator coil-Dust/debris blocks airflow and heat exchange
• Failed compressor-The outdoor unit runs but compressor isn't actually pumping refrigerant
• Clogged air filter-Severely dirty filter restricts airflow (check this first-it's free!)
• Thermostat issues-Wrong setting, dead batteries, or wiring problems

Start with the simple fixes: check your air filter and thermostat settings. If those are fine, call us for diagnosis. Refrigerant leaks and compressor failures require professional repair.

Request AC repair service

Ice forming on your AC's refrigerant lines or evaporator coil means airflow is restricted or refrigerant levels are wrong. Common causes:

• Dirty air filter-#1 cause; change filter immediately
• Blocked return vents-Furniture, curtains blocking airflow
• Dirty evaporator coil-Years of dust buildup
• Low refrigerant-Usually from a leak; needs professional repair
• Blower motor failure-Not moving enough air across the coil

If you see ice, turn OFF the AC immediately to prevent compressor damage. Switch to fan-only mode to help ice melt, then call for service. Never chip or scrape ice off-you can damage delicate coils.

Read more: "5-Minute HVAC Troubleshooting Checklist"

We recommend annual AC tune-ups before cooling season (ideally March-April in the Bay Area). Regular maintenance prevents 80% of AC breakdowns and keeps your system running efficiently.

During a professional AC tune-up, we:

• Check refrigerant levels and test for leaks
• Clean evaporator and condenser coils
• Test electrical connections and capacitors
• Measure airflow and temperature differential
• Lubricate moving parts and check belts
• Inspect condensate drain for clogs

Annual maintenance typically costs $120-$180 but saves hundreds in prevented repairs and keeps efficiency high, lowering your PG&E bills.

Before calling for service, run through this quick checklist:

• Thermostat-Set to HEAT mode? Temperature set above current room temp? Batteries fresh?
• Circuit breaker-Check electrical panel; reset breaker if tripped
• Furnace power switch-Look for a light switch near furnace; make sure it's ON
• Air filter-Severely clogged filter can trigger safety shutoff
• Gas valve-Make sure gas valve at furnace is fully open (handle parallel to pipe)

If all these check out and furnace still won't start, it's time to call for service. Common issues requiring professional repair include failed ignitor, bad flame sensor, broken blower motor, or control board failure.

Request furnace repair service

Furnace sounds can indicate normal operation or serious problems:

Booming/Banging on startup-Delayed gas ignition; extremely dangerous. Call immediately. May indicate cracked heat exchanger or gas buildup.

Screeching/Squealing-Worn blower motor bearings or bad belt. Schedule service soon before motor fails.

Rattling-Loose panels, ductwork, or failing blower wheel. Usually minor but should be checked.

Rumbling after shutdown-Burners not shutting off cleanly; possible gas valve issue. Get it checked.

Clicking (normal)-Gas valve and ignitor clicking during normal startup sequence.

Read more: "Furnace Noises Decoded-What's Normal vs Dangerous"

Annual furnace tune-ups are critical for safety, efficiency, and reliability. Here's what's at stake:

Safety: Cracked heat exchangers can leak carbon monoxide (CO) into your home-a silent, deadly gas. Annual inspections catch cracks early. In California alone, CO poisoning from furnaces causes dozens of deaths yearly.

Efficiency: A dirty, neglected furnace wastes 15-30% more gas. At $200-400/year in gas bills, that's $40-120 wasted annually. A $150 tune-up pays for itself.

Reliability: 80% of furnace failures happen because of maintenance neglect-dirty filters, bad ignitors, flame sensor issues. Annual service prevents most breakdowns.

Read more: "Carbon Monoxide Safety-Why Furnace Tune-Ups Save Lives"

It depends on the situation:

Normal: Heat pumps run occasional defrost cycles in cold weather. During defrost (every 30-90 minutes in winter), the unit briefly reverses to melt ice off the outdoor coil. You'll feel cool air for 2-10 minutes-this is expected. The outdoor unit may steam or drip water.

Not Normal: If cold air continues for 15+ minutes or happens constantly, you likely have a problem:

• Reversing valve stuck in cooling mode
• Low refrigerant from a leak
• Failed outdoor unit (not producing heat)
• Thermostat wired incorrectly

Also check: Is your thermostat actually set to HEAT mode? Is emergency/auxiliary heat accidentally activated? These are easy fixes to check first.

Request heat pump repair service

Because heat pumps provide both heating and cooling, they work year-round and require more frequent maintenance than furnaces or AC alone.

Recommended schedule:

• Twice yearly professional service-Spring (before cooling season) and fall (before heating season)
• Monthly filter changes-Heat pumps run more hours than single-function systems
• Quarterly outdoor unit inspection-Clear debris, check for ice buildup in winter

Bi-annual maintenance catches refrigerant leaks early, keeps coils clean for maximum efficiency, and ensures reversing valve operates correctly in both modes. Typical service cost: $120-180 per visit, or $200-300/year for a maintenance plan.

Learn about heat pump maintenance

Small amounts of ice/frost on the outdoor unit during cold weather (below 40°F) are normal. Heat pumps extract heat from outdoor air, which can cause moisture to freeze on the coils. The unit should automatically run defrost cycles to clear this ice.

Normal ice: Light frost or thin ice layer that clears during defrost cycles (every 30-90 min)

Problem ice: Thick ice buildup that never melts, or ice covering the entire unit including the fan. This indicates:

• Defrost control failure
• Low refrigerant (usually from a leak)
• Stuck reversing valve
• Blocked condensate drain causing water backup

Never pour hot water on ice or try to chip it off-you'll damage the coils. Turn off the system and call for service. In the Bay Area's mild climate (rarely below 35°F), heavy icing is unusual and indicates a malfunction.

Bay Area homes face unique indoor air quality challenges: wildfire smoke, coastal humidity, and older homes with limited ventilation. Here are the most effective solutions:

• HEPA air purifiers-Remove 99.97% of smoke, pollen, dust, and allergens. Essential during wildfire season.
• UV air purifiers-Kill mold, bacteria, and viruses in your ductwork
• Whole-home dehumidifiers-Control coastal moisture that leads to mold growth
• Better air filtration-Upgrade to MERV 11-13 filters (change monthly during smoke season)
• Duct sealing & cleaning-Fix leaks that pull attic dust and insulation into your air
• Fresh air ventilation-ERV/HRV systems bring filtered outdoor air in while exhausting stale air

Explore indoor air quality solutions

Yes-but only if you use the right type. Here's what works for Bay Area wildfire smoke:

HEPA air purifiers: Remove 99.97% of smoke particles (PM2.5). During severe smoke events (AQI 150+), a properly sized HEPA purifier can keep indoor air at AQI 50-80 (moderate/good) even when outdoor air is hazardous.

Activated carbon filters: Remove smoke odor and VOCs that HEPA alone misses. Look for purifiers with both HEPA + carbon.

Sizing matters: The purifier must match your room size. For a 300 sq ft bedroom, you need a unit rated for at least 300-400 sq ft with 4-5 air changes per hour.

What doesn't work: Ionic purifiers, ozone generators, and basic furnace filters (even MERV 8). Upgrade to MERV 11-13 minimum for smoke protection.

View air purifier options

Whole-home air purifiers install in your ductwork and treat all air circulating through your HVAC system:

• Pros: Treats entire home, no noise in living spaces, low maintenance (change filter 1-2x/year), invisible installation
• Cons: Higher upfront cost ($800-2,500 installed), requires ductwork, only works when HVAC runs
• Best for: Whole-home protection, households with allergies/asthma, wildfire smoke defense

Portable air purifiers treat individual rooms:

• Pros: Lower cost ($200-800 per unit), works independently of HVAC, portable between rooms
• Cons: Only treats one room, visible/takes floor space, some fan noise, filters need replacing every 3-6 months
• Best for: Bedrooms, home offices, renters, supplementing whole-home systems during smoke events

Many Bay Area homeowners use both: whole-home purification for baseline air quality + bedroom portable units for maximum protection while sleeping during smoke season.