Heating

Why Your Furnace Runs But Your House Stays Cold

Furnace running but no heat? Discover the 10 most common causes and fixes for Bay Area homes. From dirty filters to ductwork leaks, learn what's stealing your warmth.

Bay Area Climate Control

The Frustrating Reality: Heat Is On, House Is Cold

It’s a chilly December evening in the Bay Area. Your thermostat shows the furnace is running. You can hear it. But your living room still feels like a refrigerator.

This is one of the most common HVAC complaints we receive-and it’s maddening because everything seems to be working.

The good news? Most causes are fixable. Let’s diagnose what’s happening.

Quick Check: Is Heat Actually Coming Out?

Before diving into causes, verify the basics:

  1. Put your hand near a supply vent. Is air coming out?
  2. Is the air warm, lukewarm, or cold?
  3. Are some rooms warm but others cold?

Your answers point to different problems:

SymptomLikely Cause
No air from ventsBlower motor issue
Cold air from ventsIgnition or gas problem
Lukewarm airHeat exchanger or airflow issue
Some rooms warm, others coldDuctwork or zoning problem

The 10 Most Common Causes

1. Dirty Air Filter (Most Common)

The problem: A clogged filter restricts airflow. Your furnace produces heat, but the blower can’t push enough air through to distribute it.

Signs:

  • Weak airflow from vents
  • Furnace cycles on and off frequently
  • Some rooms warmer than others

The fix: Check your filter right now. If you can’t see light through it, replace it. During winter, check monthly.

Bay Area note: Our dry climate creates dusty conditions. Homes near hills or construction zones need filter changes every 2-3 weeks.

2. Thermostat Issues

The problem: Your thermostat is misreading the temperature or not communicating properly with the furnace.

Signs:

  • Display shows temperature that doesn’t match how the room feels
  • Furnace short-cycles (runs briefly, stops, runs again)
  • Temperature swings wildly

The fix:

  • Check batteries (if battery-powered)
  • Verify it’s set to HEAT, not COOL or AUTO
  • Make sure temperature is set above current room temp
  • Check if thermostat is in direct sunlight or near a heat source (causes false readings)

Older Bay Area homes: Many still have mercury thermostats from the 1970s-80s. These drift over time and cause 3-5 degree inaccuracies.

3. Closed or Blocked Vents

The problem: Supply vents are closed, or furniture/rugs are blocking return vents, disrupting airflow throughout the house.

Signs:

  • Specific rooms are cold while others are fine
  • Furnace runs longer than usual
  • You recently rearranged furniture

The fix: Walk through every room. Open all supply vents. Clear furniture away from return air grilles. Yes, even in rooms you don’t use-closing vents causes pressure problems.

4. Leaky Ductwork

The problem: Your ducts have gaps, disconnections, or holes. Heat escapes into your attic, crawl space, or walls instead of your rooms.

Signs:

  • Rooms farthest from furnace are coldest
  • Excessive dust around vents
  • Higher-than-expected heating bills
  • You can hear whistling in the ducts

The fix: Duct sealing or repair by a professional. This is especially common in Bay Area homes with:

  • Ductwork in unconditioned crawl spaces
  • Flexible duct runs in attics
  • Homes built before 1990 (duct tape degrades over time)

The impact: Leaky ducts can waste 20-40% of your heating energy. Sealing them often pays for itself in 2-3 years.

5. Undersized Furnace

The problem: Your furnace simply isn’t big enough to heat your home, especially on colder nights.

Signs:

  • Furnace runs constantly but never reaches set temperature
  • Problem is worse on coldest days
  • Home was remodeled (added square footage, opened up walls)
  • Previous owner installed a “builder-grade” system

The fix: A proper load calculation (Manual J) determines the right furnace size. Undersized systems need replacement-there’s no other fix.

Bay Area context: Many 1960s-70s homes have original or first-replacement furnaces sized for a different era (smaller homes, less insulation requirements).

6. Ignition Problems

The problem: The furnace isn’t igniting properly, so it’s blowing unheated air or cycling off before producing enough heat.

Signs:

  • Cold air from vents
  • Furnace clicks but doesn’t ignite
  • Delayed ignition (boom or bang when starting)
  • Burning smell when furnace finally lights

Common causes:

  • Dirty or failed igniter
  • Dirty flame sensor
  • Gas valve issues
  • Pilot light problems (older furnaces)

The fix: This requires professional diagnosis. Don’t attempt to fix gas-related issues yourself.

7. Blower Motor Problems

The problem: The blower motor isn’t running at full speed (or at all), so heat isn’t circulating even though the furnace is producing it.

Signs:

  • Very weak airflow from vents
  • Furnace runs, but you barely feel air
  • Squealing or grinding noises
  • Burning electrical smell

Common causes:

  • Failed capacitor (most common)
  • Worn bearings
  • Motor failure
  • Dirty blower wheel

The fix: Capacitor replacement is inexpensive ($150-$250). Full blower motor replacement costs $400-$800.

8. Heat Exchanger Issues

The problem: A cracked or failing heat exchanger reduces heating efficiency and poses safety risks.

Signs:

  • Yellow or flickering burner flames (should be blue)
  • Soot inside furnace
  • Furnace shuts off frequently
  • CO detector alerts
  • Family members experiencing headaches or flu-like symptoms

The danger: A cracked heat exchanger can leak carbon monoxide into your home. This is a life-safety issue requiring immediate professional inspection.

The fix: Heat exchanger replacement ($1,500-$2,500) or full furnace replacement. If your furnace is over 15 years old, replacement usually makes more sense.

9. Gas Supply Issues

The problem: Your furnace isn’t receiving adequate gas flow.

Signs:

  • Weak flames or delayed ignition
  • Furnace struggles on coldest days (highest demand)
  • Other gas appliances also underperforming

Common causes:

  • Partially closed gas valve
  • Gas line sizing issues (especially after remodels)
  • Utility supply problems

The fix: Check that the gas valve to your furnace is fully open (handle parallel to pipe). If other appliances work fine, call for HVAC service. If nothing works, contact PG&E.

10. Poor Insulation or Air Leaks

The problem: Your furnace might be working perfectly, but your home is losing heat faster than the furnace can produce it.

Signs:

  • Drafty windows and doors
  • Cold walls or floors
  • Furnace runs constantly on windy days
  • Old single-pane windows

The fix: This isn’t an HVAC problem-it’s a building envelope problem. But it directly impacts your heating effectiveness. Consider:

  • Weatherstripping doors and windows
  • Sealing gaps around outlets and pipes
  • Adding attic insulation
  • Upgrading windows

Bay Area homes built before 1980 often have minimal insulation by today’s standards.

When to Call a Professional

DIY fixes:

  • Replace air filter
  • Open blocked vents
  • Check thermostat settings
  • Clear area around furnace

Call a professional for:

  • Ignition or gas-related issues
  • Blower motor problems
  • Ductwork inspection and sealing
  • Heat exchanger concerns
  • Any time you smell gas

Emergency situations (call immediately):

  • Gas smell (evacuate, call 911)
  • CO detector alert (evacuate, call 911)
  • Smoke from furnace

The Diagnostic Process

When you call Bay Area Climate Control, here’s what we’ll check:

  1. Thermostat operation - Communication with furnace
  2. Filter condition - Airflow restriction
  3. Ignition system - Igniter, flame sensor, gas valve
  4. Blower operation - Motor, capacitor, wheel
  5. Heat exchanger - Visual inspection for cracks
  6. Ductwork - Accessible sections checked for leaks
  7. Temperature rise - Measuring input vs. output air temp
  8. Gas pressure - Confirming adequate supply

This comprehensive diagnosis takes 45-60 minutes and identifies exactly why your home isn’t heating properly.

Prevention: Keep Your Furnace Performing

Avoid the “running but cold” problem with these habits:

  1. Change filters monthly during heating season
  2. Schedule annual maintenance before winter
  3. Keep vents open in all rooms
  4. Don’t block returns with furniture
  5. Listen for changes in furnace sounds
  6. Watch your bills - sudden increases indicate problems

The Bottom Line

A furnace that runs but doesn’t heat is frustrating, but usually fixable. Start with the simple stuff (filter, vents, thermostat), and call a professional for anything involving gas, electrical, or internal components.

Bay Area Climate Control diagnoses and repairs all furnace brands. We’ll tell you exactly what’s wrong and give you honest options-whether that’s a $150 repair or a conversation about replacement.

📞 Call us: (510) 391-5597


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Bay Area Climate Control provides professional installation, repair, and maintenance services throughout the East Bay and greater San Francisco Bay Area.

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